Jet Settin and Route Settin Baby

So it would seem that every start to the last couple of my blog posts have started with an apology. Well if you're expecting it you're going to be sorely disappointed my friends. Things have been busy, change is on the horizon, the craziness has only subsided for the moment, but this moment will pass, so get ready for the madness to come. While we have this moment down, I thought I would share as much as I could while I have the downtime. So in mid February, I know I'm that far behind. I flew out for the Tour De Bloc, to help run, organize and set the first ever Tour De Bloc at the Hive Climbing in Vancouver. If you haven't had a chance to check out this gym yet, and you live in Vancouver, DO IT. Stop reading, turn off your monitor, grab your climbing shoes and chalk and get your butt on the sky train, or in your car, or on your bike or just start walking I don't care, GO. 

Ok so I got myself on a plane with all my tools on the Tuesday, with time changes and all, arrived at 9am BC time and went straight to the gym. My psyche was so high for this comp, and all I wanted to do was start throwing up holds.

I hadn't seen any of the photos, any of the holds, nothing. I was going in completely blind and was so uncontrollably psyched/nervous. This was the first comp that I would ever Chief for as a TDB setter outside of Ontario. I knew less than nothing of the crew I'd be working with, I had a good idea of the field but was going to relying heavily on the information and opinions given by the crew I'd be working. 

Now I haven't had any horror story crew experiences, but I have heard of them. I've heard of crews fully mutinying against their chief, of crews staying late to tweak blocs and routes back to their original versions, of crews leaving for dinner the night before the comp and just not coming back. Madness. These are, what I would think to be, every Chiefs darkest nightmares. It's always interesting working with new crews, working with different setters and seeing their creativity and ideas. It's more than likely one of my favourite things about setting comps in different gyms. 

So I get to the gym and after I got a full tour from the manager Aimee. The walls are beautiful in this gym. The gym is up and running right now and the website is up and has a beautiful gallery of the facility, you need to check it out. Also a couple of weeks ago they had Vancouver breakfast TV come out and check out the facility, take the time to watch it people, Andrew, the owner has done a beautiful job of designing this facility. the website is here the facebook page is here and the video of BT at the hive is here. Now on to the specifics.

Ok, so the gym was built by Eldorado wall company, which means they have that beautiful Eldo texture but more importantly, bomb proof T-nuts. If I have not raved about these t-nuts yet, please bear with me because these things are more than likely one of the things that has made my life so much easier. I don't know if it is simply the 3 screws (yes they are screw in t-nuts and I know it's more time consuming but the t-nuts have such a long life span) but these things are gnarly awesome. They practically re-thread the bolts every time you screw a bolt through them.  

So lets talk about the meat of this, and the purpose of this, the comp. I can't begin to tell you how hard it is for me to tell you that it didn't happen. Some very extenuating circumstances but in the end, we couldn't host the comp. It sucked and all of us, Andrew, Luigi and myself were bummed out more than i can really describe to anyone however it did happen. So Andrew and I made the best of it. We hosted a setting clinic. 

The clinic was two days long (Friday and Saturday) and we had setters come out from the Hive and Cliff Hanger. 12 route setters, covering everything from being the Head Route Setter of a commercial facility to youth specific comp setting. It was a great experience for all I think. It was my third clinic ever and I really enjoyed passing on all the knowledge that I have learned over these years.

Concurrently, I always learn a lot from other route setters and personally, with my limited clinic experience, I really love the amount I learn from other route setters. Especially when we do this exercise that I experienced and got from my level 2 USAC setting clinic and that I extended just a little bit. The first thing I did was, in a discussion with all the setters as a group, come up with all the possible movements that they and I can come up with. Then I assign them each one movement and give them 30 min to get that concept up. After that they forerune, make tweaks and then we do the same thing again, me assigning movements or sequences to force but adding a trick into it this time. This is the part that I experienced from USAC. I picked the holds for them. Not the whole bloc, but the specific holds that I wanted to see those specific movements forced with. The interesting part of this is that this gives me expectation. When I pick these holds, I have an idea of how I would force the movement with these holds and this is where both the members of the clinic and I learn from this because after they set the bloc, I get to see their version of what I had already had a concept for. This way both I and the other route setter gain from this because we both get to see a different version of a concept that we both had an idea for. I often suggest this for commercial and competitive setting a like since both require a continual amount of creative motivation.

Well that's it for this one lads and lasses, I hope you're still psyched I promise more posts are on the way and I have some very interesting news to share with you all but you'll need to stay connected for that. Stay psyched all and thanks for reading. 

Return to Grand River Rocks....

What up all?! I know long time right? I do have a good excuse and it is a good one....um setting comps. Yes, every other weekend for the last 6 weeks I've been setting a comp on one side of the country or another, but more of that later, another post for another time. So lets talk about the youth comp at GRR.
This was my return to GRR after what seemed to me a successful TDB and I was psyched to get back in to this gym and show what I could do setting for youth on a rope. In true form, and I know I didn't spray enough about it in the tour posting but, the GRR guys had closed off their ENTIRE lead wall when I rolled in on the Tuesday before. To my shock and surprise (and I'll fully admit excitement) the guys had just got in, let me say this for all of you, 1 METRIC TON, yes you read that correctly, of Climb It Holds. Have any of you ever seen 1 metric ton of Climb It Holds. It looks absolutely ridiculous! Amazing! Without a doubt, I was psyched within the first 30 min. I knew this was going to go smoothly on the setting side of things.

Justine (Youth Category C) on my green  Climb It Route

You would think with the gym being prepped so early and an arsenal of amazing holds any Route Setter could throw out the best comp ever, but this is just the start of things ladies and gentleman. Like all comps, wrenches get thrown into the mix, or broken as it would happen. On the first day of setting, my drill, a Bosche impactor that has been with me for three years and we've sweat, blood suffered and lost comps and commercial setting together, finally kicked the proverbial bucket.

This was a huge hit for me as a setter and if anyone out there reading this understands, this to me, was like loosing something. It was a huge hit. I won't be melodramatic and tell you it was like loosing my best friend or something, but I did feel it. I had lost something that had been with me through thick and thin, had set multiple memorable finals blocs with me and had been the instrument of my orchestration for a very long time. Commercially and in Comp setting that drill had seen me through a ton of good times and more than likely more bad times. So when it turned that final bolt (the only saving grace may have been that it was a 4XL Climb It hold) I felt a little sorrow for its fate. Also since it happened on the first day of setting, I got a little feeling in the back of my mind that this would not be the only thing that went wrong this comp.

Josh putting final ticks on holds

Setting Route comps, I've found and I could be wrong, move at a different pace then any Tour De Bloc. You start and you throw up routes, you keep dogging it through just like any other comp setting but the pace is slower and far more annoying. For example, when you're just about finished setting 36 feet of overhanging terrain, you've had a bucket full of holds strapped to your butt for the last 30 minutes and just as you look up to see the last 4 feet of wall, and you know exactly where you're going to put that finishing jug, you look into your bucket and find that all you have left is foot holds. Or you've forgotten the finishing jug, that one happens too. Ugh the worst. So what do you do? Every other setter is up on a rope, so there's no one on the ground to help you out of this mess. What do you do? You start thinking "could just be a dyno finish right?" or "the moves below this were really close together, I bet I could spread them out and just lower the finishing jug." And as this internal battle continues you are still sitting in that harness. That harness, although you bought the biggest and fattest strapped harness that when you sat in it in the store the words "like a lazy boy" were admitted from you, is now starting to make your legs uncomfortably numb yet still managing to dig into other sections of your body. Finally, the work ethic side of you finally takes over, you grumble and curse yourself, swearing that you're never going to leave the ground again without extra holds, a finishing jug and your drill, and you lower off to grab the holds and when you find them, bolt them and get yourself all clipped in and ready to ascend, you look up to the top of the rope and realize that you left your ascender at the top of the wall. Idiot! So you let out some form of explicit words, and a sigh of exhaustion and put your big boy pants on and start one arming. By the time you get to the top, you're biceps are both pumped beyond belief, you're tired and sweating but there is good news, you're legs are not numb anymore. So you throw up those last couple of holds, put up your finishing jug and you go to put your tape box up and you search everywhere in your bucket for it, you know you put it in there, you made sure. So where is it? And that, that is the moment you catch a glimpse of a roll of tape, lying there on the floor. More explicit words ensue and then you start calling to whoever could be on the ground to please tie that stupid roll of tape to the bottom of your rope so you can tape a box up and get off of this stupid route, you didn't like this route anyways right? 

Now none of the above happened during the setting for this comp, however it has happened and I've been incredibly unhappy when it does go that way. The point of the above story was though, that all of that process maybe happened over the course of 20 min, and that route may have already taken you an hour and a half. So including picking your holds, bolting them and all of the whole process including that huge colossal mess at the top, that route probably took somewhere in the time frame of 2 hrs, maybe 2 and a quarter. Lot more of a process than setting a couple of blocs. 

Iyma Lamarche (Youth Category A) killin the middle section of what I think was the third hardest route 

So I'll break down the format for you, because this was not a regional style event where you have 2 qualifying routes, 1 semi final and 1final route. No. This was more like a scramble format route comp. Attempts were used to break ties but competitors were not docked points for additional attempts. 

Now I will admit, we did set a little on the stiffer side, but what are you going to do. I know for the next youth comp I set, how hard to go, but this was the first youth roped comp in this area so we, the setters, really had no idea of how well the field would perform since all  the kids had just been training for bouldering and doing just bouldering comps. 

So we started out as we always do, off like a herd of turtles but somewhere at around Wed. morning at 3 am I found my groove and started throwing up routes as if someone was offering to make me a cake for every route I put up, and I do love my cake. HA! Honestly though, I think this was the most routes, not blocs, that I have ever put up for a comp. I think final count was 17 out of the 25 and one of them was the lead test route I know I know, don't even think of mentioning that to me Josh.

Ok, so I hit my groove, the other guys did as well and oddly enough, the comp was set on Thursday afternoon. I know eh? One day early! So what do you do with an extra day of work, fore run the poop out of the comp. 

Naturally, I knew fore running on my finger would be disastrous, and since he is in school there, I brought out my boy Eric Sethna to fore run everything. And to be honest, he is a much better route climber than I, he's not injured and since he did just age out of youth, he had valuable insight into the field, that I fully abused and used, so part of the comp being to hard was his fault too (sorry bruva, had to, haha.)

Day of the comp, Eric and I doing what we do best, watching,  learning , critiquing. You will note that both our eyes are open so we are not sleeping, although tired we were. 

 All in all the comp turned out pretty well. Another comp down and from that comp on I had another 6 or 7 to go assuming that I get slotted for Tour De Bloc Nationals and Youth Nationals, both of which I have said I want to be a part of and am hoping to get. Alright that's it for this post, really quick though is that all the photos that were taken for this post were given to me by Aaron Schwab, go check out his site, dudes got mad skills. Click here to visit his site. Alright kids, stay tuned, I have 2 other comps to post about and this week I'll be setting the Tour De Bloc at my own gym so I'm going to try and get those two posts up before this weekend so that I don't have to hammer my blog with three posts after the comp. Alright that's it for me, stay psyched and thanks for reading all!
           

The Climbers Rock TDB

What up!! So yes, this was the next stop on the Tour De Bloc from Grand River Rocks, the Climber's Rock Tour De Bloc. This was more than likely one of the most up and down comps I've ever been involved with. I wasn't chief at this one, my friend, Aaron Eden (fellow Flashed and Evolv team member) was the guy in charger, I just got to put up blocs, which was awesome for the first bit, not towards the end. So without further noise from me, let's get into the quick and dirty of this comp.
The first thing I would like to point out, and something that we all said afterwards, we could have avoided a lot of the little hiccups in this comp with a little bit more time. Aaron did all the organization and stuff, like a Chief should, but we started officially setting on the Wednesday when we could have started a day earlier and that would have kind of relieved a lot of the pressure of this event. However, having said that, I'm sure if you gave any route setter a month to put together a comp, it would be the best damn comp that there ever was. Comps are like that, they are time sensitive and therefore there are times where certain things just end up on the wayside because there are other things that absolutely have to get done. One thing that Jody has told me over and over, and I find myself constantly saying it as well, "On Saturday, people are going to show up and they are going to rock climb." I know it seems simple but this seems to best describe our priorities at comps. On Saturday, if there are 20 or 50 blocs up, people are going to come and rock climb so if there are only 5 blocs up, and it's Friday night, although you should never be at this point and if you are, my best suggestion, call more route setters or cry (please note crying is totally a viable and realistic option.) Anyways, if it is Friday night and you only have 5 blocs up, now is not the time to be focusing down on complicated and tweak dependent sequences. This is the time where you draw on your best resources, your very commercial and hold based setting, the tried tested and true; right-left-right-left or as the french would called it; the droit-gauche speciaux. Anyways, I think you get my point, we could have used I think one more day.
Now to relieve for the time pressure, Aaron did call in a lot of setters. We had Climber's Rock's own Francis Scherer and Tyler Norton as well as former and visiting Climber's Rock setter Eugeni Kremlev plus visiting setter Joe Layno (who I would like to point out, was my little sister and I's day camp councilor when I was super young climbing at Rock and Chalk in Newarket, just saying.) So it was a super rad crew but we had a mountain ahead of us and I think everyone involved would agree that the battle was on, and it was a back and forth brawl for sure.
So I started on Wednesday, Aaron had already gotten a couple of Finals up and put away, I rolled in and started throwing up my finals blocs, which was a little bit of a difficult process. The gym was staying open so I had to work around most of the regular set blocs that were going to come down for Saturday. Aaron was good about it though, as always its hard to balance between commercial establishment and competition venue, so he just said take down holds, people will know that stuff is missing and what not, so it wasn't that bad, just adds another step right? Anyways, the other issue I found was the organization of the holds was hard for me because every Head Route Setter has a different way of organizing holds into buckets and searching through buckets for "the perfect hold": is always time consuming. Please note that I'm not saying Aaron's organization is terrible, its just not my way so obviously it's going to take me a little more time to find stuff. Anyways, I got three of my four finals blocs up and down before the gym opened and then headed back to True North to teach an intermediate technique lesson.
On Thursday I got my last finals bloc up, put the other 3 back up to forerun, helped strip the bouldering wall which included getting off some stripped holds. This is where I think we get really lucky at True North. Our T-nuts are fucking bomb proof. I'm not joking. I think in the history of the gym being open for 2 straight years and having pulled off and put up an inconceivable a shit ton (this is actually a legit measurement, more than a crap ton but less than a fuck ton) of holds, we have had 2, only two, yes route setters, eat it up and let your draws hit the floor, 2 stripped t-nuts. At this comp we had a whole lot of stripped t-nuts and at the start, whether it was Aaron, Francis, myself or anyone else put the hold on it was "I don't understand, it went in easily," but towards the last 18 stripped holds that saying lost all meaning and I really think that there is a good lesson in this for me. No matter how good of a route setter you are, doesn't matter, stripped holds happened, granted experienced route setters will know when to back out of rough t-nuts and shit but at the end of it, stripped holds are going to happen and putting the blame off on nothing, or making the excuse of "it went in fine" is really just wasting time. They're going to happen and one of the things I took away from this comp is the next time I strip a hold during a comp, I'm not going to say that, I'm just going to grab a pair of vice grips, get in the back of the wall and pull it off instead of wasting my time making that useless excuse. MARK MY WORDS! Ok, back to the comp. So Friday morning we started the day by Aaron and I forerunning finals. I know, maybe some of you are thinking "but Dustin, how did you forerun, your finger is still injured" and the answer is yes, it is, so I developed a new and futuristic way of forerunning for the injured. I had one, left handed rounded jug that I carried around with me and every time there was a questionable move, that jug went up right beside the left handed hold that was more than likely tweaky and scary for my left hand, and I tried the move using that jug. I used this method also for qualifiers as well but that comes later. Anyways, I coined this method the lunch box jug because I just carried around all day on Friday like a elementary school kid with a lunch box. Anyways, while we were doing this, the rest of the guys were putting up the 50 qualifier blocs. This is kind of where things start to slide, I mean realistically we could have been forerunning finals on Thursday and had finals down and away by Thursday night but again, time constraints and all. So Aaron and I get through all of the finals by about 3 except for men's number 4 which was my bloc, but the movement that I had in mind was a little tricky so it needed a little extra forerunning and tweaking. Now one thing you should know about Aaron Eden is he is likely one of the fastest setters I know. If someone called me and said; "I'm opening a gym up tomorrow and I need 50 routes and 100 blocs up in the next 24 hrs, can you help me" I would say to that person "I have just the person for you and he's not me." So in order to use our resources better, Aaron moved to throwing up qualifier blocs and I took Francis off of setting and onto tweaking, forerunning and taking down finals. Anyways, we get finals down and get back to throwing up qualifiers and before we knew it, 50 blocs up and Aaron decides it would be a good idea for us to go to the Tim's up the street, get a little food and some needed caffeine in us before the forerunning of qualifiers goes on. I really do believe in this tactic of getting out of the gym, not only for the simple fact of getting ourselves some fresh air and also seeing that there is a world that does exist out of the gym but also to get us all into a fresh state of mind. I think this decision was really smart.
So after some coffee and a fresh look at things, the crew comes back and we split in two; myself, Joe and Francis forerunning, tweaking and putting into an ascending order blocs #1-25 and Aaron, Eugene and Tyler looking after blocs #25-50. Now, one of things that we did realize and was spoken up in our debrief that the blocs were a little out of order but that happens. I'm not saying that we should not strive for perfect order, however this does happen and usually due to fatigue. I mean forerunning often takes anywhere from 4-7 hours for qualifiers depending on time and number of runners so climbing for that long and being able to realistically and concisely take into account that you are tired out of your mind, especially since we foreran finals in the morning, it was bound to happen. So with all in all, stripped holds, late registrations and everything else, we finished up around 1 amish...with some things being left till the morning. Right now I'd like to give big props to the whole setting crew and Maria (one of the owners of CRock) and my girl Michelle, who came out to put up the numbers so that there would be no confusion like last time at Grand River Rocks....ugh.
Bloc of the comp goes to Eugeni for his sick bloc that finished by sitting on a feature and putting your hands in a box between your legs, I think it was somewhere in the 30s....
So qualifiers happened, there were too few blocs, I mean 50 blocs for 250+ competitors was a little too little however, again a lot of this comps little things could have been cleaned up by more time. At the end of the qualifying round, we had a pretty good separation with only one time going into finals, being a three way tie for 3rd that we broke with a count back to their next hardest send.

Eric Sethna catching the dyno on Men's #2

Onto finals. So if you didn't know, finals was a little late in starting. We did have a couple of slight technical issues (stripped holds...ugh) and because of top end competitor late entries (like Garry Posey, John Bowles, Iyma Lamarche and Thomasina Pidgeon) Aaron and I both agreed that things needed to get stepped up a couple of notches. So, in change over for finals, we grabbed fellow Evolv team mate Max Dugal and just started forerunning and tweaking finals. Also because the wall at Climbers Rock is so big, Aaron had also decided to run both Men's and Women's at the same time, which really gave the crowd a good show and because we were running so late, it definitely helped out with the catching up on lost time. Also, in case you were wondering, technology again won the battle against me and both my camera, and video camera were uncharged so all the photos I'm providing you were given to me by Aaron Eden you can also check outhis blog here.

Eric Sethna catching the dyno on Men's #3

Women's #1 was set by me and I really wanted something that almost all the women would get up but would be a little tricky and draining. I decided to go with a big cross of the start with a good heal which let you float out to a pocket, from here you would swing your feet over and cross under to an undercling on a feature that you could also use as a hand. One you got both hands on the feature you crushed yourself into this dihedral and with big feet made a long reach to a giant undercling which was the zone hold. The hard thing about this was that you had keep the tension on the left hand or, due to how big the jug undercling was, you would pull your self off the hold and end barn-dooring off. From here, you matched the undercling and went around the corner onto a slab to gain a slopping lay back. moving your feet onto the slab you used smearing feet to gain an upside down gaston for the left and an undercling side pull for your right and keeping the tension on your feet, stepping up to that layback sloper to reach the top. The overall bloc was long, but I felt it really did it's job and I really liked this bloc as a whole. I think it was something different that got the women thinking a little but not too hard and I got some separation out of it. We didn't really tweak anything accept the first two holds got a little smaller. 

Men's #1 was Aaron's and started with a jump start to a hold on a volume, then a campus out right to another hold on a volume, after a hand foot match you pulled up to a good volume stalactite on a roof which was the zone that you matched, from there a long move out to a pinch over the lip with a big move to unwind to a sloper over the lip to top out. Again a lot of guys got up this and it created some separation with attempts. The only tweak I can remember that we made to this bloc was that the pinch got way worse over the lip. 

Rockhead's Team Member Kacy Wilson up high on Women's #2

Women's #2 (Aaron's) was in my opinion what every women hates. It started by compressing your way up these bad slopers to gain a mig edge that you matched. After that you got your foot high in a crunched position and moved way out left in an opposing gaston shoulder move to a sloper on a volume that you ended up matching. This sloper was the zone. after the match you got your feet up and crossed big to a bad sloper (that we changed after the original broke while we were putting up this bloc) or you moved out left first to a bad crimp. From these two holds you either went left hand bump or right hand cross to a good sloper that allowed you to top out.

Mathew Moreau sticking the swing on Men's #2

Men's #2 (Mine plus Francis on inspiration) I'll admit I had something completely different planned for this block however, this is how it turned out. In forerunning, my idea got completely botched, however we also discovered this really cool way to do this dyno by pressing out the starting hold, adding another bad sloper that you could press off of in order to get a balanced, crowd facing stem off a giant MEC volume. From this position you jumped out and left to grab a huge jug that would spin you around to face the wall. After this you grabbed a bad sloper over the lip and did a sketchy mantle. My thoughts on this block are a little skewed. I really wanted the original idea (which I am saving for later so don't ask) but sometimes you have to let go of ideas for what is good for the comp. This bloc definitely was crowd pleasing, I like that it got competitors to face the crowd, that's always cool and I really enjoyed that after you stuck the dyno, it wasn't over as there was one or two competitors who did fall on the top out.

True North Team member crushing it out on Women's #3 Su En Neo

Women's #3 (Aaron) was steep and powerful on big pinches and positive slopers. I don't really think I can say much about this bloc cuz the pictyure says about all you need to know. Thugged out pulling on slopey and pinchy holds, quick, dirty and powerful. In tweaks we did end up taking out a foot for the move going to the lip and we turned the starting two slopers. 

Gary Posey cranking the big move on Men's #3

Men's #3 (Aaron) was an interesting bloc. This is one of the ones we thought could have been turned up a little bit more but hindsight is always 20/20 right? Anyways, this bloc had the men changing gears which I really like to see in blocs. I like to see competitors have to adapt from thugs moves and power where they're feet are swing everywhere to slowing things down, making them keep tension and being more controlled in their climbing. You started off with a one handed jump start to a good crimp with your hand on another good crimp. after you crossed under to a big undercling with your foot on a very slopey foot, you made a giant move out to a pinch (pic above.) From this position you had to make another fairly long move to a pinch on a volume created by two screw ons. All of the competitors lost their feet and this created a very cool helicopter kind of affect. after sticking this, you got into that gear change I talked about with competitors fully having to keep tension on this foot.

Matt Moreau staying tight at the "gear change" on Men's #3

After this you matched that big lip and went out to a good crimp leading to good holds over the top to the lip.

Women's #4 (Mine) I went into this bloc with a very solid idea that I think turned out. Before I start the recap of this, I want to first give the biggest props out to all the women in finals. For a long time we as route setters have been scared to set the dynos for women's finals because its a risky game. If it's too big, no lady will stick it, and please do not take this as me condenming the women's field, this is the first ever dyno that I have set for women's finals and the nervousness of putting out there and hoping that the women will stick it and that they won't find some sneaky way to crimp a foot hold or something to get out of it or worse, none of them stick it, since it was the first move. But the women brought all of their game and it was AMAZING. after you dynoed out to the holds on a large feature. From here you got a wrap on the corner of the feature and a dual textured for your right hand and you hand to stand on a small foot chip on the feature while your right foot stood on one of the dyno holds. this put the women in a hunched over kind of position with you left hip into the wall and you keeping tension against the undercling by pushing with your right foot and palming the top of this feature with your left hand. From here you made a quick dynamic move to catch a tiny foot chip over the lip of a traingle feature, match with another small chip for your right hand and finally a big move out left to a good sloper to a very dicey top out. I'm really happy about the way this bloc turned out it's too bad I didn't get any video or pics of this comp, however my buddy Aidas Odonelis got some awesome pics, here's his flickr page for the comp: here.

Eric Sethna working hard on Men's #4, like to point out, not my intended beta

Men's #4 (mine) So finally we come to the last bloc. I would like to point out that I thought for sure this would go, however I think the last minute tweaks we made (and yes I know if you're reading this Tonde you are shaking your head reminding me that you should never, ever, make last minute tweaks,) made this bloc slightly too hard but it just means the next time I try something like this I'll be more prepared for it. So the bloc started out with a hard undercling move to crimp that was spun to be a gaston for your left hand. To oppose this you had to make a quick jump to a bowl volume on a triangle feature. After you stuck this you matched, got your foot high and crossed to a crimp or went out to a pinch. Either way you had these two holds with nothing on the right to oppose them. So you had to get a heel or a toe hook on the bowl volume. You used this opposition to get a triangle volume ontop of a triangle volume with a thumb catch for the left hand and moving again with your right hand to get a huge right jug (the bonus hold in the pic above.) This put you almost horizontal holding the tension with your toe hook or heal. This position was really hard to hold and you had to release this the toe hook and control this massive swing only using that jug and a horrible sloper volume with a thumb catch. If you controlled the swing, you hand put your right foot up on a terrible sloper on a triangle volume and get a wrap on a large Climb It tufa. This is where we turned things up a bit and I should have remembered that the competitors will be tired and it was a longer bloc. From this wrap/undercling you threw big to a sloping rail (another Climb It tufa) that in tweaks we had turned upside down. Using that jug ring as a heel/toe cam, you matched the rail and had to throw big to a sloper over the lip to an easy top out. None of the guys got up this bloc but a few did make it past the swing. If I was to go back i would definitely not make the tweaks at the top of this bloc.

Thomasina Pidegeon killin it on Women's #3

So at the end of it, the comp happened, we got perfect separation out of the women's field and the men's blocs could have been turned down just a tiny bit but we did still get separation with out any sort of count backs. Thanks to all my sponsors; Evolv, Flashed, Climb It, Project and of course Climbingholdreview as well as True North Climbing for giving me the support I need to continue setting comps.

Well I'm out for now, I think I've written enough. I hope you guys like the comp recaps cuz there are tons more comps coming. I'm scheduled to set at least 4 more TDBs and a bunch of Youth Comps also maybe, maybe some setting clinics. Anyways, peace all, stay psyched and if you're around, drop into Grand River Rocks on January 28th where I will be Chief at their Youth Comp and giving an Intro to Route Setting Clinic on the Sunday. Stay Psyched guys.

Alright so long time....the GRR TDB

I know!!! I'm so lame. It's been quiet and I know, I'm sorry, I've neglected my blog but I have a good excuse. Well, not really but its at least a small reason for my lack of updates. I got injured at the first Tour De Bloc this season at Joe Rockhead's (a recap of that will come, I promise and this time it won't take me weeks to do it) however all is well, I have been resting...in between mad setting comps!!! HAHA! Oh finger, I know you hurt from over training (to be realistic I have not taken a very solid chunk of time off) and one angry and very misunderstood pocket but now you've just made it possible to set all the comps I want...so long as I have a forerunner. Which is where I'm going to start the recap of all the things I've been up to. This will not happen in one post, so hopefully, nothing interesting happens from now until, January 14th.
"What's happening January 14th Dustin?"
"Wait and see kids, wait and see."
Anyways. I just got back from setting the 1st EVER, Tour De Bloc at the brand new gym in Kitchener, Ontario; Grand River Rocks.

So I rolled into the gym Tuesday morning before the comp (the 24th of November,) after making a "sort of" battle plan of where the week was going to go and meeting two of the four owners of GRR and the guys that would be my main support in this endeavor, Josh and Mike. Now I never actually snagged a pic of either one of them although somewhere in all the videos, there will be a rendering of both of them, I can almost garuntee. Anyway, these guys are crazy. Although setting a comp is always a fight and a long week of simply suffering as you slam your head against the wall hoping that another idea comes into your brain, this was definitely one of the more enjoyable comps to set and not just because Josh and Mike's help, Jody Miall himself came down from Ottawa to help me out. Now as Chief Route Setter, I did all the things I was supposed to; slamming out finals blocs, making sure the guys were on task and creating the distribution we need for the comp and all, but it was awesome to have Jody there to take up the slack when things got messy which, as with every comp, we always get a little behind or some small flaw comes up right? Well, the flaws were mostly mine this time. My injured finger had a little to say about forerunning, as in: "no way dude. Not even #1." So, most of the time I was trusting Josh and his abilities to decipher sequences, and arbitrarily put everything in an order and make some sense o all these blocs. Honestly, it wasn't as bad as I'm making it to sound out, this comp ran ridiculously smooth. By Thursday we had all the finals up, forerun, ticked, photoed and boxed away. These guys were troopers.

This is what happens when you're up till 3 am celebrating your success of surviving the week. Me and Michelle "Ready" to fix any technicals in the Youth and Rec rounds. And yes, those ratchets are special to me....
phto cred: John Gross

So, let me tell you about qualifiers. I decided on 50 blocs, I didn't want to go too crazy in qualifiers and I wanted a more "quick and dirty" qualis to warm everyone up for Finals. We had a bunch of blocs that were tiny hand (youth) friendly, which is always super important to me. There was a good seperation, no ties going into finals I think, I'll have to look over it but again, pretty sure, although as I'm typing this I'm getting a fague recollection of a count back but again, I'll look over things. Anyways, quick and dirty, I think my boy Eric Sethna, who is also living with Michelle and I (and honestly, that's a shit show,) was down in maybe an hour and half? I think? Regardless, everything in qualifiers seemed to go down perfectly, therre were awesome blocs all around from Jody, myself, Josh and Mike. I actually want to make special mention here. Every comp there is the one bloc that is the "bloc of the comp" kind of thing. You know that bloc that there is a line up for in each round? It's not the hardest bloc, but in retrospect, the best of the comp. That is the "bloc of the comp"
I'd like to start a tradition on my blog, giving out the BLOC OF THE COMP award. I know this is completely arbitrary and keep in mind, is not meant to offend anyone, as I said in my first posts, these are merely the ramblings of a crazed rock climbing, route setter. So without further a due, your award for the 1st ever TDB at Grand River Rocks...drum roll please...Bloc # 27, the qualifying round, set by Mike. I asked him for something kid friendly and balancy and he delivered with a beautiful bloc involving an awesome mantle to a no-handed finish. The regret of qualifiers, I would like to point out that regret is such a harsh word, I'm closer to going with "if I could go back and renumber a bloc I would." It happens to the best of us and I am no exception. I numbered bloc #42 way to high and I shouldn't have. It was too easy for where it sat in the line up but I was tired and it was the last day, these are not excuses but I share these errors so that you all know that I try so hard to learn from them. Also, second regret is that in the placards process which, is the when we number the blocs from #1 to #50 and then hang the identifier for that bloc, we accidentally hung one bloc twice and thought we had 51 blocs...ugh!

Tim Ng, True North Climbing Inc., working it out on Men's #1
Photo Cred to Tom Ngo

Finals! Finals was all me and Jody and I just want to say I've set a bunch of comps with Jody and finals #1, for both men and women was one of the best blocs I think I've ever had a hand in setting. Jody and I discussed a bunch of options for this but both of us agreed that for our "vision" we wanted something a little different, something with some World Cup influence, but still something that would be sent, a bunch. The bloc was mostly the same for men and women, an extra sloper added in before zone for the women, and the finishing jug was a bolt hole closer. The video up above shows Tim on Men's Final #1 with the intended balancy stand up beta and then fall into the sloper. Jody and I worked hard to get this bloc just right and it turned out but we both wanted many more competitors up this bloc...

Erin Ford, Rockhead's Team, getting the figure 4 on Women's #2

Women's #2 was meant to be the business. I wanted something a little dynamic, a more powerful bloc. I spent all summer competing at and watching all the world cup reports and what I really wanted from this bloc was a low percentage move to a campus match. I didn't get all of that but I did get the dyno, but the campus match didn't happen. I tried to use a friction dual text incut from their new comp series line however it didn't I under estimated the women's field of the TDB (yet again) and they managed to get an awesome smear off of the dual text section of the undercling. Way to go ladies! 

Kuge Rikuya on the dyno of Men's #2 

Men's #2 was something I wanted to be just a intricate as #1. I had set my heart on a toe-hook dyno and a bunch of the men "sort of" almost, read it. In the end, it went down as a backstep throw, however, I'd like to work more on this idea for the future. Ok, so, the dyno didn't turn out but all the men still made this dyno look sick, but after the dyno, you had a knee bar, a bad side pull sloper, a slap to an evil feature sloper called the SPORE by Element Climbing to a very desperate throw to a jug. Very low percentage and a super separator, only a couple of men got it. 

The video above is True North Team member Sui En Neo fighting out the first crux of Women's #3. This bloc was designed by Jody Miall and what we wanted, what we envisioned for this was, a hard pumpy, good holds, big moves bloc that if you had the endurance, the get go, the gusta, you could rock it. I admit we over estimated the bloc a little however still a rockin bloc. Here's another video of Erin Ford crushing it.

Men's #3...what can I say. I'll admit, in full, my original version was slightly ridiculous. It was much harder. The ledge over the lip was actually a scoop sloper and was honestly, terrible. What I had envisioned for this bloc was straight up, no fooling, pullin. I wanted a straight up, power endurance bloc. There's nothing else to say about this bloc other than it included the brand new Yves Gravelle, from Friction Climbing and the ever rreliant and beautiful Climb It Patina series crimps. The video below is of my boy Eric Sethna, Petzl athlete and....yes...I hate to admit it but...yes...a 5.10 athlete...anyways...he killed it on #3, actually only one to make it up #3. 

Alright so #4. I'm almost positive that no women sent #4, I'll admit, we switched the undercling last minute and I shouldn't have. However, Women's #4 involved a big drive by to a small incut (Friction Climbing) then a  bad bump off of a bad sloper from Element to another bad Element pinch which lead to the harsh match of this pinch with a good foot. So here' s how it went: I envisioned at least one women up this bloc. Again I made a mistake. Still the women pulled hard I just over estimated how not tired they would be. I over compensated. Ugh!!! Still the women killed it. Erin Ford, for only climbing once a week, you're insane!

Alright so the photo is sideways! I can't figure this out, there must be some unknowable tech to fixing this, however, this is Max Dugal, Evolv Athlete, killing it on men's #4.

Men's #4 was quick and dirty, I meant it to be. I wanted something short, sweet and something a little deliberate. 3 moves, one to the 2nd hold, one to the thrid (which was doable with the heel hook, static, and the throw,) and then the top. Second move was to a sloper and third was to a low percentage edge, then the top. To be honest I had envisioned more men up this bloc.
In final, I know this has been a heavy media blog, I'd like to say more is on the way. I have about 3 posts that have been half saved due to the fact that I've simply been busy. Look for more. Stay psyched and climb happy.

What up! Alright so, here's the skinny. Been really busy lately, setting at the gym, training for the upcoming comp season and coaching. Two weekends ago I hopped on a jet and flew out to Banff, Alberta for the annuall Coaches Conference. This happens every year, a bunch of coaches from Canada, and one coach from the US this year, come together to share, discuss and learn about the trials, tribulations, suffering, agony and yes even shear joy and bliss of coaching climbing. Ah! Wait I forgot, it wasn't as simple as merely hopping on a jet. For those of you who have had the amazing experience of Pearson International Airport's labour dispute, I sympathize with all of you, however if you haven't had the experience yet, and do actually have a flight booked in the next little while, you should cancel it, switch it, move it, sell it. It isn't worth. After standing in line for a good two hours and then suffering through the angony of boarding the plane, only to be deboarded for a second security check, after finally landing in Calgary to find out that my rental had been given away, after all of it, I finally arrived in Banff. The conference was incredibly fascinating. As with all conferences, somethings said were relavent and inspiring, some things were completely out there, and somethings just didn't seem to matter. However, it was an amazing experience and I had the opportunity to discuss and meet many coaches from across the country. One in particular, Andrew Wilson, who is the director of the CEC (Competition Climbing Canada) was incredibly inspiring. I've had the opportunity to set with Andrew at Junior Nationals in 2010 and it was a greta experience. Andrew continually impresses me with his ability to be self critical and his continual drive to learn and improve.
So this past weekend, I headed up to my old stompin ground, in Ottawa, Coyote Rock Gym for the Fall Classic. The Coyote Fall Classic is a friendly format competition, with no finals, and has been a long standing tradition for Ottawa Climbers. Jody Miall, the manager and head route setter, has been setting great comps for more than half of a decade now and continues to amaze and please. The quality of blocs was as per usual at its highest and a 150 competitors showed up to descend upon the 70 blocs that Jody and Kellen Tapely and a handful of other Ottawa setters put up with all the fury and desire of starved teenage boys at an all you can eat buffet. Now the field wasn't as stout as say a Tour De Bloc (although the first stop on Canada's National Bouldering Circuit will be held on Nov. 5th at Joe Rockhead's here in Toronto) but my friend Yves Gravelle, who lives in the Ottawa region, came out to show us all how strong he is, and likewise, I brought up my roomie, Eric Sethna. Joining that field plus myself was another friend and fellow setter who has also inspired me but I would say more, is someone who I would set any comp, anywhere, for any field with, Fred Charron.
The Blocs, again, were top quality, with some of the regular trickery that I would have expect from Jody Miall but one of the things that I would like to comment on is that Coyote Comps always have a perfect breakdown and distribution of zones. What is that you ask, well let me enlighten or review for those of you who all ready know this. Its part of the Chief's job to break the gym and walls into zones, if the boudlering wall is huge, unfortunately due to your position and responsibilities (I'd like to point out that these come with no extra $ signs) you need to break it up into zones where there will be a certain number of blocs and only that number of blocks, no matter how dope one of the other setters "traverse of a thousand moves" is. Ugh. So yea, you break each area and the other areas of the gym into different zones, make sure that there is an even distribution of easy, medium, hard, very hard and "huh really, that goes..." blocs and then you hope every one of your setters was listening at the huddle before you started setting. The more important thing about dividing up zones is you more want to consider it as the designated areas of "fall zones." This means that if two competitors bail off the last move of two different blocs in two different zones, no matter how bad they bail, or how far they superman off the last hold, they should not, ever, collide or land on top of each other. To bring that rant to full conclussion, I've always thought that Jody does a really good job of considering this. Next! Coyote built a new wall!


I know it's not painted or textured but this is the only picture I could find of it. Besides, this is pretty dope no?

Big, steep and top out, this boulder just adds to the obscene amount of bouldering Coyote Rock Gym has. All in all the comp was fun, I'm just getting back into shape after tkaing time off after my World Cup tour in Europe and North America and this was fun to come out and get back into the Canadian Comp Scene. Eric Sethna (True North Team Member) took the win on the Men's side, which made it none too hard to get back to Toronto and on the Women's side Allez Up's Chloe Legault took 1st place. I didn't have a lot of opportunity to take pics but as promised I have dug up that video from Summer Sweat Finals of Kieth on Men's final #4. Check it out. Boy's got fight!!!! Alright all, I'm out, thanks for reading and keep psyched!

A Demo, A Comp and One Stupid Grip Taped Feature...

Wow, last weekend was busy! Sorry for my late update about it, but I think I spent most of this week playing catch up and suffering from shear exhaustion. Ok, so to begin, and I'm warning you right now this will more than likely be a picture heavy post, Last Friday (the 23rd) I drove out to Climber's Rock and helped Aaron Eden and Francis Scherer host, put together and run The 2011 Summer Sweatfest Finale. The format was crazy, attendance was less than expected and on top of that it was one of only a handful left, nice weekends in Southern Ontario basically, we the Route Setters were psyched, but worried that however brilliant we made things, the turnout might be too low. So before we even stuck a hold on the wall, Aaron and I sat down and hashed out, tweaked and rendered a vision for the comp that was, in all complete honesty, the battle plan. I posted before about the heinous mess that is setting for a comp but I'd like to elaborate just a little, especially with this comp so fresh in my mind. Don't get me wrong, I love setting for comps, I love the result of, on comp day, competitors smiling, having fun, trying problems, figuring out sequences, however, it takes a ton of effort, blood sweat and tears to get to that point. Being both a competitor and a setter, I have a unique perspective on comps, since I know that they need to happen for the sport to grow and I appreciate all the work that goes into them, however I know that when I setting a comp, there will be stress, there will be exhaustion and at some point, at least one point in the process, I'll be ready to throw in the towel.

I know it looks like scribbles but it actually made a ton of sense to us...

I know this post is going to be long, so be prepared for some rants but I'm going to try to keep the rants to a minimum. So lets talk about the format. The format for this comp, I felt, to be honest, was a little ambitious especially since the turn outs for each stop of the tour had lower than last year numbers but I think there was also a positive in this format that a lot of competitors that would not regularly get to climb in this style of format, got to experience the strategies and pressures of climbing in these formats. So now that I referenced the format a bunch of times, but haven't explained it yet, here it is:
Qualifiers: All categories had a 22 bloc, friendly format scramble qualifier on the Saturday, UNLESS, unless you had series points saved up and you were in the top eight in OPEN cuz then you got a buy to semifinals held on Sunday morning. These blocs were great, I think I only managed to set one of these and it may have been bloc 16 o 17 however, I did manage to forerun everything in this comp.
Semifinals: Yea you heard it, we had a semifinals round on Sunday morning for 20 competitors for both Men's and Women's OPEN. We didn't get the full quota for eithe category but Men's was closest with I think 16 competitors total. The format was 4 blocs, 5 min on 5 min off. I set Men's #1, Women's #1 and again fore ran everything. I liked this round a lot, although it did offer a huge challenge as a setter since we did have a bunch of competitors with no experience in this type of format so the blocs had to have a large range of difficulty and kill sets and still allow us to get a separation from the field and allow for the competitors still to feel like they got to climb stuff right? Ugh. More on this later.
Finals: International format finals, 4 blocs, 2 min preview for each and then 4 min + rule for attempts.

So while Qualifiers went on, I dragged some Evolv Athletes (Max Dugal and Iyma Lamarche) out to do a shoe demo since I recently got the demo kit dropped off to me. The above picture is of Max and Iyma doing what they do, get people into great climbing shoes. On the left, you'll notice a Crash Pad. That's the new Evolv Iceman that was sent out to me last week, I was going to make a post about it but I haven't really had the opportunity to try it out. You can check it and the bigger version, the Maverick out here.
After the qualifying round, Francis, Aaron and I stayed at the gym for an easy night of throwing Semi's back up and giving them the once over. Our semi's definitely had their work cut out for them, since we hadn't even seen half of the Men's field climb and all of the women got a buy into Women's Open. Like I said there were good and bad things about this format.

 

Me doing last minute inspection of Francis' Men's Semi #2 and Aaron's Women's Semi #2

Ma boy Eric Sethna crushin through the campus moves of Men's Semi #1

So Semis finished off with a bunch of ties, and yes it didn't go the way expected but every bloc got sent, maybe a little too much but  that's how it goes sometimes. You can do everything possible and at the end of it, it comes down to knowledge of the field and a little bit of luck. On the Men's side we ended up with three ties, one for 1st, one for 3rd and one for 5th. Not so bad, no great, would have rather had perfect separation in Semis and be able to chill out for finals, but no such luck. On the women's side is where we, the Setters, were crying inside; five way tie for 1st. UGH! Yea, we screwed the pooch on that one right? Oh well. Nothing we could do about it save tweak our finals to do their jobs hopefully.
Now I had gone into this comp with an idea of a problem I wanted to set for a while now. I think I had called Aaron about it maybe 2 months ago. It wasn't anything super unique but it was something I hadn't seen done in a while and I wanted to know how competitors would handle it, especially a field with such a wide range of experience. First thing I'll clarify is that it was Men's Open Final #4. The field for Men's Open was really broad, from my friend Eric Sethna who just got back from competing at the Boulder World Cup in Munich and finished off his Youth career this year by attending the World Youth Championships in Imst, Austria. But this idea, this idea I had I wanted to put it on the wall and see if Competitors could figure it out in the allotted time. I find that it is easier to introduce more complicated blocs to competitors, to sort of ease them into a different style, if there is a preview period. So I presented this blocs concept to Aaron, he agreed we could try it, and I put it up for Men's #4 final. I won't give away the whole bloc, but Evolv Athlete Max was the first one up, with my buddy Kieth Mackay giving it a super valiant attempt, honestly I think that's the hardest I've seen anyone try on a bloc, if I can find the video I will post it but the other send was from Eric Sethna, who ended up taking first place. Here's the video of his send, slightly epic:

So the opening move was meant to be a one handed dyno to the ring that Eric desperately stuck but other than Eric, everyone else did it the way I intended. The way Eric did it made it look much harder and very low percentage but it turned out never the less. The idea for this bloc was to force the knee bar above your head, which I feel was achieved, and I don't feel like this style of bloc comes up all too often in our comp circuit, the Tour De Bloc. Anyways, I was really please with this bloc and my Men's Semi #1, which had the dropped down campus move. The other bloc that I set, and again will continue to search for video, is my Women's #4 finals. Although a bit too easy, I think it was really cool to see that many volumes used and again I got to force another knee bar. 

So now we get into the one really big thing that went wrong at this comp, that taught me a valuable lesson. No more grip tape. Ever. I'm done with grip tape. The reason being, during Will Johnson's first attempt on Men's Final #2.This was this awesome line set by Aaron starting with a big crossover off a jug undercling to this nose style triangle feature with grip tape on it that you wrapped, matched and move to a screw on pinch on a big triangle feature, then heal the grip tape to fall into an undercling on that feature before moving up to another feature with a very subtle screw on sloper on it. From there, you made a tensionie throw to a pinch way out and right to another big throw over the lip to a sloper and finally topping out. This bloc was a lotof fun however, the grip tape came off in Will's hand the minute he grabbed it. I wish I had a picture of all our faces but i can share this pic with you guys.

How many route setter does it take to fix the grip tape...

Worst thing ever. If I ever do use grip tape in a bloc again, I'll make sure to have enough spare to put an army of teenagers through their skate boarding careers. Amateur and Pro. Seriously after the grip tape came off we had to move the guys on to the next bloc and send someone out to buy new grip tape. No easy feat on a Sunday night at 6 pm.

I think overall the comp turned out, we had some great blocs although I will admit we were worried and that they were a touch to easy. In the end Eric Sethna took it home for the men and Sasha Vince took it home for the Women. Photo credit goes out to Zen Ng, she knows how to use my camera better than I do and Video credit goes to Michelle. I'm kind of lucky to have to media ladies eh? I'm looking forward to a little bit of down time before the comp season begins. I've been training, and working on my weakness and trying to get my fitness up so we'll see how the first one goes. The first comp is at the start of November at Joe Rockheads, come out and I'll see y'all there. Peace guys and gals, as always keep your psyche up!

Playing Catch Up...

So again, I am playing catch up on all the things that I meant to blog about before I went to Europe and competed on the World Cup circuit (secretly I meant to start this blog before the World Cup circuit cuz it would give me tons to write about, but I couldn't figure out blogspot for the life of me. Not a joke, really, I swear there was at least one night before I left for the World Cups where I was cursing blogspot saying "there are 15 year old's out there that can figure this out, how come I can't?!?!) So anyways, in light of the Season Finale of Summer Sweatfest coming up this weekend, and me, your most lovable and conniving wrench monkey heading out to help out Head Route Setter Aaron Eden, I thought I would address a topic I'm always passionate to talk about and have circumstance to address: holds. Now before we get into the real meat of this topic I want to admit two things. First and foremost, I'm a hold junkie. I spend more time looking at holds than most frat boys spend drinking. I look at holds for at least 2-3 hrs a day, sometimes at work, sometimes at home, sometimes in the hold room of the my gym, sometimes on the walls. I am truly addicted to climbing holds. So with that admission comes a second; I love Climb It and Project Holds. This is not to say that I don't set with anything else or that there aren't holds that I absolutely love from other hold companies (side note Cellulite package from Rock Candy, and the new Half Flats from Teknik; SO PIMP!) but I just think in Project and Climb It. Yes I know I'm sponsored by both and I love both those sponsorship but before my sponsorships I was a big fan of these companies long before we worked out anything. The reason Climb It and Project are my go to holds is because whenever I conceive movement, get inspired or even just simply need holds to put up, these two are my go to's. I had this discussion with a route setter that I work with at the gym and have worked with for a really long time, Jonny Briggs. This guy is brilliant and we have completely, COMPLETELY opposite setting styles. At the heart of that is we both just think in different holds. Anyways, back to the reason for this post, I wanted to talk about the holds I found in a box for me when I returned from my European adventure.

 

 

 

 

Oh Climb It, you always know just how to make a climber feel special....

Yes! The Climb It Tufas. Not all the holds that were in the box made it into this picture, I don't know how but some of them just made it straight from box to the wall. These holds are pimp. I've actually worked with these holds before, at our Tour De Bloc last year, I'm going to see if I can find any footage from that comp but I am a huge fan of these holds. I did a review on Climbing Hold Review of them and the one thing I can repeat over and over about these holds is PIMP. They're versatile, can make a 5.8 the show of a life time, and make your projects become epic and wicked. They go down as very possibly my favourite hold set ever. The guys at Climb It deserve a huge props for these holds and I wanted to share it with all of you. Kep the psyche, I'm off to go and set the Sweatfest Finals. If I don't see you all there, keep psyched. Peace All!