So on the last post I shared that I recently got support from a hold company in Australia called Uncarved Block. This company has been causing problems since 1996 (man I love that slogan, good job guys!) Now if you'll remember, they gave me a bunch of holds for the Tour De Bloc at True North, which we used on Men's final number one. The holds they gave me had never, ever, been seen before. In fact, they weren't on the website, no one else had received, I don't actually know if anyone had climbed on them before the Male finalists of that comp.
|My friend Florent Balsez navigating through the technical moves forced by the Twenty One crimps.|
and The Brain:
These blocs, the three that I got up with the holds I had were well received and I was impressed with the way the texture stood up to commercial gym traffic. More importantly, I'm really impressed with shapes and how simple and functional they are, there the holds that are, well, the holds you want. "Yo I need a crimp for this move." "Yup and you should grab that Uncarved Block one over there."
So last week, I walked into the gym and like every Route Setters dream, there was a box, from a hold company and it was full of these:
These are brand new holds, just released, fresh the molds, holds. Allow me to introduce to you all, Seeing Stars (the three pointed triangular pinches,) The Knobules (the knob-like small pinches) and some other set of sloping/incut, half moon, edges that I can't find their name on the sight, and I lost the piece of paper in the box that the series name was on.
Let's start with the Seeing Stars set. Amazing. Simply and awesome set. Some of these are positive to be on a roof (yes they are on there now at the Hive, eat your hearts out) and some aren't but this, route setters and climbers alike, know that these holds are versatile enough to be on your project, no mater the grade, V1 to V14 these holds can do it. They can have intricate sequences of hand flips and using holds multiple ways or they can lend them selves to sick thugged out pulling. I'm super psyched on these holds and I love climbing on them.
The Knobules. These guys are gnarly little pinches, ones where you have to mash and stack your fingers in to get it good you know. Or they can be the perfect heel around the corner, just good enough to get purchase but not a giant jug. They could even be used as big feet for supremely easy routes. This is a really cool set, I'm trying to think of another set to compare them to, but it's not really coming. They're pretty unique and again with the Uncarved Bloc texture they're skin friend but still have bomber frictionFinally those scoop slopey/incut things. I really enjoy this set. Two of them are positive enough to be on a very steep angle, think 70, and one of them is bad enough to be not so great on slab. Right now I'm using them as part of a compressiony section of a bloc up a prow but I'm interested to see what else I can do with them once that bloc comes down. These holds are amazing. All three of these sets I fully recommend. I can't wait to see what I can do with these sets coupled together with the Twenty One crimps....the possibilities are endless.
Thank you Uncarved Block, for all your continued support. If you're interested in their holds, check out the website here. Seriously guys, these guys are pouring some awesome shapes, take the time to go and check them out.